Will Pinot Noir See a Reverse Sideways Effect?

In my first column for this site, I touched on the subject of "wine fashion," and how on certain occasions, the overwhelming popularity of a type of grape, or style of wine, can result in a backlash against that grape or style of wine from knowledgeable wine consumers. In nearly all cases that I can think of (Merlot, Chardonnay, etc.), this stems from what Jancis Robinson has termed the "'big equals bad' phenomenon."

As with any blanket statement philosophy, always assuming that "big equals bad," invariably leads to some missed opportunities, as Robinson illustrated with a story from a recent blind tasting where Gallo Moscato was selected by several Masters of Wine over several more expensive artisanally produced Moscatos. However, in general, the wine public has rebelled against large scale wine production because it represents wine that is made for the sake of profit, and generally eschews small scale wine making techniques that bestow quality and character on wine. One of these techniques is the careful sourcing of the grapes. In evaluating the state of Merlot prior to the evisceration of its reputation by the movie Sideways, here is what I wrote about the manner in which the grapes were selected:

As Merlot's popularity increased, countless wineries added Merlot to their repetoire, in the hopes of capitalizing on the growing demand. However, not everyone who attempted to cash in on the increased demand for Merlot was well positioned to do so. The promise of economic gain caused wineries to overlook whether they had the appropriate climate to grow Merlot grapes, and many produced substandard wines as a result of this oversight. The glut of average Merlot that flooded the market, combined with its near universal popularity, led to a backlash against Merlot among the wine conoscenti, and formed the basis for the disparagement of Merlot in the movie Sideways.

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Lambrusco: Wine Industry Promotion or Forgotten Gem?

As someone who likes to try new wines, and be on the cutting edge of emerging trends, a slight smile crossed my face when the lovely young women manning the Vinlandia USA table at the Killington Wine Festival began aggressively promoting Lambrusco, as I tasted through their portfolio at the Saturday Grand Tasting. 

"You simply have to try Lambrusco," said one of the women. "It's a delicious, dry sparkling red." 

Not to worry, I told her, I'd definitely be trying the Lambrusco. My philosophy of always being willing to try any wine that I'm offered when at a tasting nonwithstanding, I'm well aware of what Lambrusco is, and I've had several good experiences with it. I very much appreciated the Villa di Corlo Lambrusco Sorbara that was served at the Vinlandia USA table, but I also thought of the Lini Lambruscos that I occasionally enjoyed during the days that I worked at BRIX Wine Shop in Boston. I'd always enjoyed Lambrusco, but it wasn't something that I drank very often. 

Still, I couldn't help battling a little skepticism, as other festival attendees approached the table, and were given the same spiel about the Lambrusco. Perhaps it was because I'd witnessed repeated efforts to attract people to the Lambrusco, but after one couple walked away without trying the Lambrusco, one of the women at the table addressed my girlfriend and I again. "It's the summer of Lambrusco," she declared, and pointed towards a placard on the table.

 

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A Sauvignon from Burgundy

Summertime is the season of cool, crisp refreshing wines, perfect for afternoon picnics, trips to the beach, and evening appetizers on the deck as the sun sets. That's not to say I turn away from red wine in the summer, but unless I'm chilling a Beaujolais (like Domaine Pascal Granger, Jean Foillard, Marcel Lapierre, or Jean-Paul Thévenet) or a lighter bodied Cabernet Franc (Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Rouge is always a favorite), if the weather is warm, I tend to stick to white wines and rosé. While I've made no secret of my love for rosé in earlier posts, I abide by the motto that "life is too short for one wine," and to that effect, I often turn to whites as a change up from rosé in the summer. One of my go to summer whites is Sauvignon Blanc, mainly due to its racy, cirtus, herbaceous character. 

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Cooking With Ash?

Tastes Like... Ash? has been one of the most popular features on WSJ.com for the last few days. After watching the video, I've learned that the concept of cooking with ash is an ancient one, but it appears that it is gaining renewed usage at among culinary geniuses such as Frank McClelland, Executive Chef at L'Espalier in Boston. I have always been a fan of Frank McClelland's cooking and recipes. His book, Wine Mondays, is one of my go-to resources for crafting a memorable dinner with accompanying wine pairings. It has also been a source of inspiration for new wine pairings for many other favorite recipes. The book is based on the restaurant's now 10-year tradition of pairing a selection of wines with a seasonally or regionally inspired five-course tasting menu of Chef McClelland's invention, which has become one of L'Espalier's hallmarks.

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Rosé: A Summertime Sip Worth the Plunge

"You would bring rosé, wouldn't you?" my brother called out mockingly, as we floated down the White River, in Stockbridge, VT. 

I smiled, and sipped the last few drops of Frisk Prickly Grenache rosé from my GoVino glass. A wash of red cherry and pomegranate flavors caressed my tongue, offering a subtle hint of sweetness that was balanced by a healthy dose of acidity. It was nearly 95 degrees outside, and aside from being on a tube in the middle of the river, I could think of little else that I would rather have to help me beat the heat. "Of course," I replied, giving my brother a smile. "It's the middle of summer, it's hot, and we're river tubing. Why wouldn't I bring a rosé?" 

"That's true," my brother acknowledged. "I suppose rosé has become something of a tubing tradition."

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